Apparel Glossary
This expanded textile glossary covers not only fabrics and fibers but also production, printing, and merchandising terms widely used in the apparel and fashion industry.
A
All-over Print
All-over print is a printing technique where a design covers the entire surface of a garment, including seams, from edge to edge. The process typically uses sublimation printing on polyester fabrics or cut-and-sew production where panels are printed before assembly.
In streetwear and sportswear, all-over print is associated with high visual impact and limited-edition positioning.
Because the design wraps the entire garment, production requires either a large-format sublimation printer capable of printing full panels, or a specialised screen printing setup. This makes all-over print more expensive per unit than standard front or back placement printing and typically requires higher minimum order quantities.
For clothing brands considering all-over print, fabric choice is critical. Sublimation ink bonds chemically with polyester fibers and produces vibrant, wash-resistant results on synthetic fabrics.
On cotton, sublimation does not work effectively. Brands wanting all-over print on cotton garments typically need to use a cut-and-sew approach, printing the fabric before the garment is assembled.
Appliqué
Appliqué is a decoration technique where a piece of fabric, leather, suede or other material is cut into a shape and sewn or bonded onto the surface of a base garment.
The applied piece sits on top of the base fabric, creating a layered, tactile effect that screen printing and embroidery cannot replicate.
In contemporary streetwear and workwear, appliqué is used for logos, lettering and graphic patches. It communicates a level of craft and material investment that resonates with customers who value construction detail.
Leather appliqué on a heavyweight hoodie or a woven label sewn flat onto a crewneck are common examples in premium casual wear.
Appliqué requires more production time per unit than printed or embroidered decoration, which is reflected in its cost. It works best on garments with sufficient fabric weight and structure to support the added material without distortion.
B
Batik
Batik is a wax-resist dyeing technique originating in Indonesia where wax is applied to fabric in a pattern before dyeing. The waxed areas resist the dye and retain the original fabric colour, while the unwaxed areas absorb it. The wax is then removed, revealing the pattern.
The characteristic visual quality of batik is its organic, slightly crackled appearance where dye seeps through small fissures in the wax. This unpredictability is considered part of the aesthetic rather than a defect.
Authentic hand-batik is produced by applying wax with a tjanting tool or a stamp, with each piece varying slightly from the next.
In the context of contemporary clothing brands, batik-inspired prints are frequently replicated digitally or through screen printing to achieve the visual effect at commercial scale. True hand-batik production remains a craft process associated with small-batch, artisan-positioned collections.
Blank / Blank apparel
A blank is a garment produced without any branding, print or embroidery. It serves as a clean base for clothing brands to customise with their own artwork, labels and identity before selling under their own name.
Quality varies significantly across blank manufacturers. The key specifications to evaluate are fabric weight in GSM, fiber composition, construction and finishing.
A heavier blank, typically 300g and above, holds its shape longer, feels more substantial and justifies higher retail pricing. A lighter blank costs less to produce but communicates less value to the customer wearing it.
For clothing brands, the blank is a brand decision as much as a production decision. The fabric a customer touches is the first physical expression of the brand's quality standard.
Premium blanks manufactured in regions with strong textile traditions, like Portugal, are increasingly sought after by brands positioning their product at a higher price point without investing in fully custom cut-and-sew production.
Blend
A fabric blend combines two or more different fibers in a single yarn or fabric construction. The most common blend in apparel is cotton-polyester, typically in ratios of 80/20, 65/35 or 50/50 cotton to polyester.
Blends are used to combine the desirable properties of each fiber. Cotton contributes softness, breathability and printability. Polyester contributes durability, shape retention, wrinkle resistance and moisture-wicking properties.
A 50/50 cotton-polyester t-shirt, for example, is lighter and more durable than a 100% cotton equivalent but prints less vividly and has a different hand feel.
For clothing brands making decisions about blank specification, the blend ratio affects several downstream outcomes. Screen printing and DTG perform better on higher-cotton-content fabrics. Sublimation printing requires high polyester content to bond effectively.
The retail positioning of the garment also plays a role: premium streetwear brands typically use 100% ring-spun cotton for their core range, associating synthetic content with lower quality, while performance and sportswear brands lean toward high-polyester blends for functional reasons.
Brick-and-Mortar
Refers to a physical retail store, as opposed to online-only stores.
Bulk Purchasing
Buying textiles or merchandise in large quantities, usually at discounted prices.
C
Canvas
A heavy plain-weave fabric, durable and versatile.
Carding
The process of disentangling fibers before spinning.
Combed Cotton
Combed cotton is produced by passing carded cotton fibers through a combing process that removes short fibers and straightens the remaining ones before spinning. The result is a cleaner, stronger and softer yarn than standard carded cotton.
The combing process removes approximately 15-25% of the raw fiber by weight, which is why combed cotton is more expensive to produce. The remaining long-staple fibers produce a yarn with fewer loose ends protruding from the surface, which translates into a smoother fabric with less pilling over time and a cleaner surface for printing.
Combed ring-spun cotton combines both processes: the fibers are combed to remove short staples and then ring-spun to produce a tighter, more uniform yarn.
This is considered the premium standard for blank apparel fabrics and is the construction used in heavyweight blanks positioned for the higher end of the market.
Cut-and-Sew
Cut-and-sew is a garment production method where fabric is sourced in bulk, cut into pattern pieces and assembled from scratch. It is the opposite of blank-based production, where a pre-made garment is decorated after manufacture.
Cut-and-sew allows complete control over every element of the garment: fabric weight and composition, silhouette, seam construction, fit grading and label placement.
It is the production method used by established fashion brands producing proprietary styles that cannot be replicated using standard blank templates.
The barrier to cut-and-sew production is significantly higher than blank-based production. Minimum order quantities are typically higher, lead times are longer, and the investment required to develop patterns, samples and production specifications means the method is generally not viable for brands in early stages.
Most clothing brands start with blanks to validate the market and transition to cut-and-sew for specific hero styles once volume and margin justify the investment.
D
Denim
Durable cotton twill fabric, used in jeans and workwear.
Direct-to-Garment (DTG) Printing
Direct-to-garment printing is a digital process where a specialised inkjet printer applies water-based inks directly onto the surface of a garment. The artwork file is sent to the printer, which reproduces it on the fabric without requiring screens, transfers or setup beyond the digital file itself.
DTG is best suited to small runs, complex artwork and photographic or multi-colour designs where the setup cost of screen printing would be prohibitive.
Because there is no screen preparation involved, DTG allows printing of a single unit at the same cost per unit as a run of ten, making it the preferred technique for print-on-demand operations, sample production and limited-edition drops.
The process works best on 100% cotton or high-cotton-content fabrics with a smooth, tight weave. Polyester and synthetic fabrics do not absorb water-based inks effectively without pre-treatment. Print vibrancy on dark garments requires a white ink underbase layer, which adds to print time and cost.
Direct-to-Film (DTF) Printing
Direct-to-film printing is a process where artwork is printed onto a specialised film, coated with a hot-melt adhesive powder, and then heat-transferred onto the garment surface. The design is created on the film and bonded to the garment through heat and pressure.
DTF is compatible with a wider range of fabrics than DTG, including polyester, nylon and blended materials that do not absorb water-based inks well. It does not require pre-treatment of the garment before printing, and the finished transfer can be stored before application, allowing production workflows to be separated from decoration workflows.
The finished print has a slightly raised surface feel due to the adhesive layer. DTF prints are generally more durable than DTG on synthetic fabrics, while on cotton the two processes produce comparable wash fastness when applied correctly.
E
Elastane (Spandex/Lycra)
A stretchy synthetic fiber used in sportswear and leggings.
Embroidery
Embroidery is a decoration technique where a design is stitched directly into the fabric of a garment using thread. Unlike printing, which sits on the surface of the fabric, embroidery is physically integrated into the textile, giving it a dimensional quality and durability that printed decoration cannot replicate.
Standard flat embroidery produces a design where all stitches lie at the same height against the fabric surface.
The visual effect is clean and structured, well-suited to logos, monograms and wordmarks. Flat embroidery is the most common technique for brand logos on the chest or sleeve of a garment.
The quality of an embroidery result depends on several variables: stitch count and density, thread type, fabric backing, and the complexity of the digitised file used to program the embroidery machine.
A design that works well in print may need to be simplified or redrawn before it embroiders cleanly — fine lines, small text and complex gradients typically do not translate well to standard embroidery.
For clothing brands, embroidery is associated with premium positioning. The tactile, dimensional quality of a well-executed embroidered logo communicates craft in a way that a screen print does not, which is why embroidery is the standard decoration technique for workwear, luxury casualwear and premium headwear.
Ecru
Fabric in its natural, unbleached color.
F
Finishing
In apparel production, finishing refers to any process applied to a fabric or garment after the base construction is complete, with the purpose of altering its appearance, texture, performance or durability. Finishing processes are applied at the fabric level before cutting and sewing, or at the garment level after assembly.
Common finishing processes relevant to blank apparel include pre-washing and pre-shrinking, which stabilise the fabric dimensions so the finished garment does not shrink significantly after the customer's first wash.
Enzyme washing softens the fabric surface and gives garments a slightly worn, broken-in appearance from the first wear.
Pigment dyeing and garment dyeing are finishing processes that apply colour to the assembled garment rather than to the raw yarn or fabric, producing a characteristically faded, uneven finish associated with vintage and workwear aesthetics.
For clothing brands, understanding which finishing processes have been applied to a blank is important for predicting how the garment will behave after customer washing and for communicating care instructions accurately.
Flat Embroidery
Flat embroidery is embroidery where all stitches lie level against the surface of the fabric, producing a smooth, two-dimensional result. It is the standard form of embroidery used in commercial garment decoration and the baseline against which techniques like puff embroidery and appliqué are distinguished.
The term is used primarily to differentiate from puff embroidery, which uses foam under the stitches to create a raised three-dimensional effect. Flat embroidery is better suited to designs with fine detail, small text and complex shapes where the foam required for puff embroidery would distort the edges of the design.
French Terry
French terry is a knit fabric construction with loops on the interior side and a smooth surface on the exterior. The looped interior traps air, providing light insulation and moisture absorption, while the smooth exterior offers a clean surface for printing and embroidery.
French terry is the standard fabric construction for premium sweatshirts and crewnecks in the mid-to-heavyweight category. It differs from brushed fleece in that it has no napped interior.
French terry is lighter, less insulating and more structured than brushed fleece, making it suitable for year-round wear in moderate climates and popular in streetwear collections where a cleaner aesthetic is the goal.
In terms of weight, French terry sweatshirts and crewnecks typically run from 300 GSM to 480 GSM. The weight affects both the drape of the garment and its suitability for customisation. Heavier French terry holds embroidery better and resists puckering more effectively than lighter constructions.
Fulfillment
The process of storing, packing, and shipping products to customers. Often managed by third-party fulfillment centers.
G
GSM (Grams per Square Metre)
GSM is the standard measurement of fabric weight in the apparel industry. It describes how much one square metre of a given fabric weighs and is the primary indicator of a garment's density, durability and perceived quality.
A t-shirt at 160-180 GSM is lightweight, suitable for warm climates or athletic use. At 220-280 GSM it sits in the mid-weight range, standard for most quality basics. At 300 GSM and above it becomes heavyweight, with a substantial hand feel that holds its structure through repeated washing.
For hoodies and sweatshirts the range is higher. A hoodie at 280-320 GSM is considered standard. At 480 GSM and above it enters premium heavyweight territory, the kind of fabric associated with high-end streetwear brands charging €120 or more per piece.
René Bassett's hoodie range is 480 GSM, developed specifically for brands positioning at a premium price point.
When evaluating blank suppliers, GSM is one of the first specifications to request. A supplier unwilling to disclose it, or whose stated GSM is inconsistent with the hand feel of the sample, is a red flag worth taking seriously.
H
Heat Transfer Printing
Heat transfer printing is a process where a design is first printed onto a transfer paper or film and then applied to a garment using heat and pressure. The heat activates the ink or adhesive and bonds the design to the fabric surface.
There are several variants of heat transfer printing with different technical characteristics. Standard heat transfer uses a printed paper carrier and produces a design with a slight plastic feel on the surface.
Soft-hand transfers use a thinner ink layer and produce a result closer to screen printing in texture. DTF (Direct-to-Film) is a more recent development that uses a film carrier and hot-melt adhesive powder, offering improved durability and fabric compatibility compared to older transfer methods.
Heat transfer is useful for small quantities, complex multi-colour artwork and fabric types that do not respond well to direct printing methods. Its main limitation compared to screen printing is durability: standard heat transfer prints are more susceptible to cracking and peeling over time, particularly on high-stretch fabrics.
Heather
Heather fabric is produced by blending yarns of different colours before spinning or weaving, creating a subtle multi-tonal or mottled visual texture in the finished fabric.
The most common heather effect is grey heather, produced by blending white and black or grey fibers, and results in the characteristic speckled grey of classic athletic t-shirts and sweatshirts.
In contemporary casualwear, heather fabrics are associated with a worn, relaxed aesthetic. Heather grey and heather navy are among the most commercially successful colourways in the premium blank market because they pair easily with screen printing and embroidery while maintaining a more textured, characterful appearance than solid colours.
The visual intensity of the heather effect depends on the ratio and colour distance between the blended fibers. A subtle heather uses fibers of similar tones; a more pronounced heather mixes significantly contrasting colours.
I
Inventory
The stock of fabrics, garments, or merchandise held by a brand or retailer.
Interfacing
A material used to add structure inside garments.
J
Jacquard
Intricate woven fabric made on a Jacquard loom.
Jersey
Jersey is a knit fabric construction produced on a circular knitting machine, characterised by a smooth face and a slightly looped back. It is the standard fabric construction for t-shirts, polo shirts and lightweight base layers.
The defining characteristic of jersey is its horizontal stretch, which comes from the knit loop structure rather than from the addition of elastane.
This natural stretch makes jersey comfortable against the skin and forgiving in fit, which is why it has been the default fabric for casual t-shirts since the early twentieth century.
Jersey fabrics vary significantly in weight, fiber composition and quality. A lightweight jersey at 160 GSM in a cotton-polyester blend is standard for promotional or event t-shirts.
A heavyweight jersey at 300 GSM in 100% ring-spun cotton is the construction used in premium blank t-shirts designed for retail positioning.
L
Linen
A breathable natural fiber made from flax.
M
Merchandise (Merch)
Products branded and sold by a company, often including T-shirts, hoodies, and accessories.
MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)
Minimum order quantity is the lowest number of units a supplier will produce or sell in a single order. MOQs exist because production setups involve fixed costs — screen preparation, machine setup, colour mixing — that only become economical when spread across a minimum number of units.
MOQs vary significantly across the supply chain. A large garment factory producing for global brands may require 500 to 1,000 pieces per style.
A specialist blank supplier with in-house customisation may offer 50 pieces per colour and style for printed or embroidered products. Some blank suppliers, including René Bassett, have no minimum order quantity for undecorated blank products.
For emerging clothing brands, MOQ is often the critical barrier between an idea and a physical product. A supplier with a 500-piece MOQ requires a brand to commit significant capital before a single unit has been sold.
A supplier with a 50-piece MOQ allows a brand to test the market with a small first run, verify demand and scale accordingly. Understanding the MOQ structure and the conditions under which it applies is one of the first questions any founder should ask before beginning a production relationship.
Mercerization
Mercerization is a chemical treatment applied to cotton fabric or yarn where the material is treated with a caustic soda solution under tension.
The process swells the cotton fibers, increasing their diameter and causing them to become more cylindrical and reflective. The treatment is then neutralised and the fabric is washed.
The effects of mercerization are increased lustre, improved dye uptake and greater tensile strength.
Mercerized cotton has a noticeably shinier appearance than untreated cotton and takes colour more vividly and evenly. It is used in premium dress shirts, fine knitwear and luxury casual basics where colour richness and surface sheen are part of the product's appeal.
Mohair
A lustrous fiber from the Angora goat.
N
No Minimum
A production or printing option allowing orders with no minimum quantity.
P
Piqué
Textured weave used in polo shirts.
Polyester
A durable synthetic fiber, wrinkle-resistant and versatile.
Pre-Shrunk
Pre-shrunk refers to fabric or garments that have been processed to cause most of the shrinkage that would naturally occur during washing to happen before the garment reaches the customer. The process typically involves washing or steaming the fabric under controlled conditions to stabilise its dimensions.
Pre-shrinking is standard practice in quality blank manufacturing. A garment that is not pre-shrunk may reduce in size by 5-10% or more after the customer's first wash, which creates sizing inconsistency and customer dissatisfaction.
Most reputable blank manufacturers state the expected residual shrinkage of their products after pre-treatment, typically in the range of 3-5%.
For clothing brands, confirming that a blank is pre-shrunk is particularly important if the brand intends to embroider or print the garment after receiving it, since heat from printing processes can trigger additional shrinkage if the fabric has not been properly pre-treated.
Private Label
Private label in apparel refers to products manufactured by one company and sold under a different brand's name and identity. The manufacturer produces the garment to the brand's specifications and the brand applies its own labelling, packaging and branding before selling to the customer.
Private label is the dominant model in the premium streetwear and contemporary casualwear market. A brand sources blank garments from a manufacturer, applies screen printing, embroidery or other decoration, adds its own neck label and hangtag, and sells the finished product as its own. The customer buys the brand, not the manufacturer.
For clothing brands starting out, private label production using premium blanks is the most accessible route to a credible physical product. The investment required is significantly lower than cut-and-sew, the lead times are shorter and the quality ceiling, with the right blank manufacturer, is high enough to support premium retail pricing.
Puff Embroidery
Puff embroidery is a technique where a layer of foam is placed under the embroidery stitches before they are sewn, creating a raised three-dimensional effect on the finished garment.
The foam compresses slightly under the needle during stitching and then expands within the sewn area, pushing the thread upward and creating visible depth.
The technique is widely used in premium streetwear and headwear, particularly on caps, hoodies and crewnecks, because the raised effect communicates craft and attention to detail in a way that flat embroidery does not.
It works especially well for bold logo designs, wordmarks and geometric shapes where the three-dimensional quality adds visual weight to the branding.
Foam density, stitch density and thread tension all affect the final result, which is why a sample is always recommended before committing to a bulk order.
René Bassett offers both standard flat embroidery and 3D puff embroidery on its blank range, with a maximum embroidery area of 15cm and a minimum of 50 pieces per colour and style for bulk orders.
Puff Print
Puff print is a screen printing technique that uses a specialised ink containing a heat-activated expanding agent. When the printed garment passes through a heat curing oven, the agent in the ink expands and the print rises above the fabric surface, creating a raised three-dimensional texture.
The visual and tactile result is similar to puff embroidery in that the design has visible depth and can be felt by touch, but the production process and aesthetic are distinct.
Puff print has softer, more rounded edges than embroidery and covers larger surface areas more economically. It is particularly effective on bold graphic lettering, logos and geometric shapes where the raised quality adds weight and presence to the branding.
The height of the puff effect depends on the thickness of the ink deposit and the concentration of the expanding agent. A standard puff print raises the ink layer by approximately 1-3mm. Higher puff effects are possible with multiple ink passes but require precise control to avoid cracking at the edges of the design.
Puff print works best on heavyweight cotton fabrics with a tight weave. The fabric needs sufficient density to support the raised ink layer without distortion. On lightweight or loosely constructed fabrics, the puff effect can cause the garment to pucker around the print area, particularly after washing.
Like standard screen printing, puff print requires one screen per colour and has the same setup implications in terms of minimum order quantities.
At René Bassett the minimum for puff screen printing is 50 pieces per colour and style, with a maximum print width of 40cm. A sample is required before bulk production to confirm the puff height, edge definition and colour accuracy against the approved artwork.
Q
Quality Control (QC)
Quality control in garment production is the set of inspection and verification processes applied throughout manufacturing to ensure the finished product meets defined specifications. In apparel, QC covers fabric inspection before cutting, in-line inspection during assembly, and final inspection before packing and shipping.
Key variables checked during garment QC include fabric weight consistency, colour accuracy against an approved standard, seam strength and consistency, measurement accuracy against the approved size specification, print or embroidery registration and coverage, and absence of defects such as staining, pulls, holes or mislabelling.
For clothing brands sourcing from a blank manufacturer, QC is relevant at two stages. The manufacturer applies QC to the blank before it ships. If the brand is also applying decoration (printing or embroidery), a second QC stage covers the decorated garment.
Requesting a sample and approving it before bulk production is the primary QC tool available to brands sourcing from a remote supplier.
R
Ring-Spun Cotton
Ring-spun cotton is produced by a spinning process that continuously twists and thins the cotton fibers, creating a stronger, softer and more uniform yarn than standard open-end or carded cotton.
The process removes short, irregular fibers and aligns the remaining ones more tightly, resulting in a smoother surface and greater durability.
For clothing brands, ring-spun cotton matters for two reasons. The surface quality provides a cleaner print surface for screen printing and DTG, meaning artwork reproduces with sharper edges and more consistent ink coverage.
The wear life is also longer: garments made from ring-spun cotton hold their shape and softness through significantly more wash cycles than those made from carded cotton, which is particularly important for brands selling at premium retail prices where customer expectations of durability are high.
Combed ring-spun cotton takes this further. The combing process removes even more short fibers before spinning, producing the softest and most consistent yarn available in standard apparel production.
Most premium blank manufacturers use ring-spun or combed ring-spun cotton as the baseline for their heavyweight ranges.
S
Satin
A glossy-surfaced fabric used in luxury wear.
Screen Printing
Screen printing is a technique where ink is pushed through a fine mesh screen onto the surface of a fabric. A stencil blocks the areas where ink should not be deposited, and a squeegee forces ink through the open areas of the mesh.
One screen is required per colour. The result is a print with a tactile quality and opacity that digital printing methods cannot replicate.
Screen printing is the industry standard for bulk apparel decoration. The ink sits on top of the fabric rather than being absorbed into it, producing vivid opaque colours that remain consistent across large production runs.
The setup cost of creating the screens is spread across a high volume of units, which is why the standard minimum order quantity is typically 50 pieces per colour and style.
Puff screen printing uses a specialised ink that expands when heat-cured, creating a raised textured surface.
René Bassett offers both standard and puff screen printing on its blank range, with a maximum print width of 40cm and a minimum of 50 pieces per colour and style for bulk orders.
Sublimation Printing
Sublimation printing is a digital process where dye is converted from solid to gas under heat and pressure and bonds directly with polyester fibers at the molecular level.
The dye becomes part of the fabric rather than sitting on top of it, producing prints that are exceptionally resistant to fading and cracking and that have no tactile surface quality — the print cannot be felt by touch.
Sublimation requires a minimum polyester content of approximately 65% to work effectively, with best results on 100% polyester fabrics. On cotton, the dye does not bond and the print will wash out.
This is the primary limitation of sublimation for brands working with premium cotton blanks: the technique is not compatible with the fabric type.
Sublimation is the standard technique for all-over print production, sportswear and technical apparel where durability under repeated washing and physical activity is critical.
For fashion-positioned brands using cotton blanks, screen printing, DTG or DTF are the appropriate alternatives.
W
Warehousing
The storage of goods before fulfillment and distribution.
Wholesale
Wholesale in the context of apparel refers to the sale of goods in bulk quantities at prices below retail, typically from a manufacturer or distributor to a brand or retailer.
The wholesale buyer resells the goods at a higher price, with the margin between the wholesale price and the retail price representing the gross profit on the product.
For clothing brands sourcing blanks, wholesale access typically requires registration with the supplier and a commitment to purchasing above a minimum threshold, or agreement to the supplier's terms of trade.
Wholesale pricing reflects the reduced per-unit cost of producing or selling in volume, and the difference between retail and wholesale pricing for the same blank can range from 20% to 50% or more depending on the supplier.
René Bassett operates on a wholesale model for its blank range. Brands register for a wholesale account, which provides access to wholesale pricing across the full product catalogue, sample ordering and bulk order capabilities.
There is no minimum order quantity for blank products on the wholesale account.
Wool
Natural fiber from sheep, known for warmth and durability.