If a tech pack is the full brief you send to a manufacturer, the garment specification sheet is the measurement section of that brief. It's the document that defines exactly how big each part of the garment should be, across every size you're producing.
Most clothing brands encounter the spec sheet for the first time when a manufacturer sends one back with a sample. A table of measurements, a set of abbreviations they've never seen before, and no clear explanation of what any of it means or whether the numbers are right.
This post is for that moment. It explains the most common measurements on a garment spec sheet, how they're taken, what they affect on the finished product, and what to do when a measurement on the sample doesn't match the spec.
Understanding this isn't just useful for quality control. It's what lets you give precise feedback during sampling, which is one of the main things that separates brands that approve production in two rounds from brands that spend five rounds going back and forth with vague corrections.
How Garment Measurements Are Taken
Before going through individual measurements, it's worth understanding the method, because the same measurement taken differently produces different numbers.
All garment measurements are taken flat, with the garment laid on a table and smoothed out, not stretched. This is called the "flat measurement" or "laid flat" measurement. When you read a number on a spec sheet, it refers to the garment lying flat.
For circumference measurements like chest or hip, the convention is to measure one side only and multiply by two to get the full circumference, or to take the full measurement across both panels depending on the spec format being used. The spec sheet should specify which convention is in use.
Measurements are taken in centimetres in most European and international production contexts. Some US-based brands work in inches. Make sure you and your manufacturer are working in the same unit before reviewing any spec sheet.
The Core Measurements on a Hoodie or Sweatshirt Spec Sheet
Chest Width (Half Chest)
This is one of the most important measurements on any top garment and the one most likely to affect how the finished piece feels on the body.
It is taken flat, across the chest, measured one inch below the armhole seam on both the front and back panel. Because the garment is measured flat, this is a half-chest measurement. A half-chest of 60cm means a full chest circumference of 120cm when worn.
This measurement determines how the garment fits across the torso. Too narrow and the body feels restrictive. Too wide and the silhouette reads as shapeless. For oversized streetwear pieces, the half-chest typically runs between 62cm and 68cm on a size medium depending on the intended drop. For a more fitted cut, it sits closer to 54cm to 58cm.
When you're checking a sample against the spec, measure the chest one inch below the underarm seam on both sides and compare. A tolerance of plus or minus 1cm is generally acceptable. Anything beyond that should be flagged.
Body Length
Body length is measured from the highest point of the shoulder, at the centre of the collar seam, straight down to the bottom hem at the centre front.
This measurement controls where the garment falls on the body. A standard adult hoodie in a medium typically lands somewhere between 68cm and 74cm body length depending on the intended fit. Extended or cropped silhouettes sit outside this range intentionally.
Body length is the measurement most affected by fabric relaxation after washing. Pre-shrunk blanks like those produced at René Bassett have 0 to 3% shrinkage, which on a 70cm body length means the finished length after washing stays within roughly 1 to 2cm of the spec. Brands using non-pre-shrunk blanks need to account for this in their spec.
Sleeve Length
Sleeve length is measured from the centre back of the collar, across the shoulder point and down to the end of the cuff. This is the cross-back sleeve length and is the most common convention in international production.
Some spec sheets measure sleeve length from the shoulder seam to the cuff instead. The two produce different numbers for the same garment, so it's important to confirm which method your spec is using before comparing against a sample.
A standard sleeve on an oversized medium hoodie measured from the centre back runs approximately 88cm to 93cm. On a more fitted cut the same measurement sits lower.
Shoulder Width
Shoulder width is measured flat across the back of the garment, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, following the line where the sleeve meets the body.
This measurement affects the structure of the garment significantly. A shoulder width that's too narrow creates a dropped-shoulder effect where the sleeve seam falls off the natural shoulder point toward the arm. A shoulder width that's too wide creates a square, boxy look even on lighter-framed wearers.
On structured oversized hoodies, a shoulder width of 50cm to 56cm on a medium is common. This measurement interacts directly with the chest width: a very wide chest with a narrow shoulder produces a silhouette that reads as draped rather than structured.
Sleeve Opening (Cuff Width)
The cuff width is measured flat across the ribbed cuff at the very end of the sleeve.
This is a measurement that many brands overlook until they see the finished product and realise the cuffs are either too tight or too loose. On a ribbed cuff, the measurement is taken with the ribbing in its natural, unstreched state. A standard cuff on a medium runs approximately 9cm to 11cm flat, which gives a circumference of 18cm to 22cm when worn.
For brands with a more fitted sleeve silhouette, the cuff width is often kept tighter. For relaxed or wide-sleeve silhouettes, a wider cuff reads better proportionally.
Bottom Hem Width
The hem width is measured flat across the bottom of the garment, from one side seam to the other.
On most garments, the hem width is close to or slightly wider than the chest width because the body panel doesn't taper significantly toward the hem. The hem may be finished with a ribbed band, in which case measure the ribbing in its natural state, or with a straight hem cut from the main fabric.
If your garment has a drawstring at the hem, the spec should include the hem width both with and without the drawstring tightened.
Hood Height and Hood Width
For hoodies, the hood is typically specified with two measurements.
Hood height is measured from the crown of the hood down to the point where the hood joins the neckband, following the centre front of the hood. This controls how much coverage the hood provides. A short hood height leaves the crown of the head exposed when worn up. Too tall and the hood falls forward over the face.
Hood width is measured flat across the hood at its widest point, typically at ear level. This affects how much volume the hood has when worn and how it sits when down. A narrow hood lies flat against the neck and reads as clean and minimal. A wider hood has more volume and a more relaxed silhouette.
Armhole Depth
The armhole is measured from the shoulder seam down the curve of the armhole to the underarm seam, following the seam line.
This measurement directly affects how the sleeve attaches and how much freedom of movement the garment allows. A deep armhole creates a dropped-shoulder effect that's characteristic of oversized streetwear. A shallower armhole gives a more structured silhouette where the sleeve attaches closer to the natural shoulder.
Measurements Specific to Sweatpants and Shorts
Waist (Half Waist)
The waist is measured flat across the top of the waistband in its natural, unstreched state. Like the chest, this is typically recorded as a half measurement. For elasticated waistbands, the spec usually includes both the relaxed measurement and the stretched measurement.
Inseam
The inseam is measured from the crotch seam down the inside leg to the bottom of the hem. This controls the length of the leg below the crotch point.
Outseam
The outseam is measured from the top of the waistband down the outside of the leg to the bottom hem. This gives the total length of the garment from waist to hem.
Thigh Width
The thigh width is measured flat across the leg at the highest point, just below the crotch seam. This is one of the measurements that most affects how a sweatpant silhouette reads: a wide thigh creates a relaxed, dropped-crotch look while a narrower thigh produces a more tapered profile.
Leg Opening
The leg opening is measured flat across the hem of each leg. A wide leg opening reads as relaxed and contemporary. A tapered opening creates a more traditional sweatpant silhouette.
How to Use the Spec Sheet During Sample Review
When your sample arrives, measure it against the spec before anything else. Use a soft tape measure, lay the garment on a flat surface and measure each point exactly as described above.
Mark any measurement that falls outside the acceptable tolerance, which is typically plus or minus 1cm on most measurements and plus or minus 0.5cm on smaller measurements like cuff width. Write the actual measurement next to the spec measurement so your feedback to the manufacturer is precise: "Chest width: spec 60cm, sample 63cm, please reduce to 60cm" is more useful than "the chest seems a bit wide."
Once you've confirmed measurements, then move on to the visual checks for placement, colour and decoration quality.
For a full walkthrough of the sampling process and what to check at each round, the sampling process guide covers everything after the spec sheet.
How Spec Sheets Work at René Bassett
At René Bassett, the base measurements for each blank style are already established and consistent across production. When you work with us, you receive a spec sheet for the style you've chosen that reflects the actual measurements of our blanks in each size.
This means you're not starting from scratch. The chest width, body length, shoulder width and all other measurements are already defined and consistent across reorders. What you're specifying on top of that are the variables that belong to your brand: your print or embroidery placement with exact dimensions, your label position, and any size modifications if your target fit differs from our standard grading.
If you want to see the spec sheet for a specific style before ordering, book a free consulting call and we'll go through it with you. Or order a sample from the Starter Pack to measure the garment yourself before committing to a production brief.
The tech pack guide covers how the spec sheet fits into the broader production document, if you want to understand how all the pieces connect.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a spec sheet and a tech pack?
A tech pack is the full production document, covering fabric specifications, decoration placement, label instructions, construction details and measurements. The spec sheet is the measurement section of the tech pack. Some brands use the terms interchangeably, but strictly speaking the spec sheet is one component of the tech pack.
Are garment measurements taken stretched or flat?
All garment measurements are taken flat, with the garment laid on a smooth surface and not stretched. Measurements taken stretched will not match factory measurements and will cause confusion during sample review.
Is the chest measurement a half or full measurement?
Typically half, meaning the garment is measured across one side lying flat. A half chest of 60cm corresponds to a full chest circumference of 120cm when worn. Confirm with your manufacturer which convention they use before comparing numbers.
What tolerance is acceptable on garment measurements?
A tolerance of plus or minus 1cm is generally accepted on most measurements. On smaller details like cuff width or neckband height, plus or minus 0.5cm is more appropriate. Anything outside these tolerances should be flagged in your sample feedback.
Do measurements change after washing?
Yes, and the amount depends on whether the fabric is pre-shrunk. René Bassett blanks are pre-shrunk with 0 to 3% shrinkage, meaning a 70cm body length will remain within approximately 1 to 2cm of the spec after washing. Non-pre-shrunk fabrics can shrink significantly more, which needs to be accounted for in the spec.
What happens if a measurement on my sample is outside spec?
Flag it with the exact numbers in your feedback to the manufacturer: the spec measurement, the sample measurement, and the correction needed. This gives the production team a precise target for the revision rather than an interpretation of vague directional feedback.
Does René Bassett provide spec sheets for its blanks?
Yes. Each blank style has an established spec across all sizes. When you work with us, the base spec is provided so you know exactly what you're building on before you write your own production brief.
Can I modify the measurements of a René Bassett blank for my own fit? Minor modifications are possible within certain parameters. Contact us to discuss what's feasible for the style you're interested in before including custom measurements in your brief.
Related Reading
How to Read a Garment Specification Sheet: What Every Measurement Means
If a tech pack is the full brief you send to a manufacturer, the garment specification sheet is the measurement section of that brief. It's the document that defines exactly how big each part of the garment should be, across every size you're producing.
Most clothing brands encounter the spec sheet for the first time when a manufacturer sends one back with a sample. A table of measurements, a set of abbreviations they've never seen before, and no clear explanation of what any of it means or whether the numbers are right.
This post is for that moment. It explains the most common measurements on a garment spec sheet, how they're taken, what they affect on the finished product, and what to do when a measurement on the sample doesn't match the spec.
Understanding this isn't just useful for quality control. It's what lets you give precise feedback during sampling, which is one of the main things that separates brands that approve production in two rounds from brands that spend five rounds going back and forth with vague corrections.
How Garment Measurements Are Taken
Before going through individual measurements, it's worth understanding the method, because the same measurement taken differently produces different numbers.
All garment measurements are taken flat, with the garment laid on a table and smoothed out, not stretched. This is called the "flat measurement" or "laid flat" measurement. When you read a number on a spec sheet, it refers to the garment lying flat.
For circumference measurements like chest or hip, the convention is to measure one side only and multiply by two to get the full circumference, or to take the full measurement across both panels depending on the spec format being used. The spec sheet should specify which convention is in use.
Measurements are taken in centimetres in most European and international production contexts. Some US-based brands work in inches. Make sure you and your manufacturer are working in the same unit before reviewing any spec sheet.
The Core Measurements on a Hoodie or Sweatshirt Spec Sheet
Chest Width (Half Chest)
This is one of the most important measurements on any top garment and the one most likely to affect how the finished piece feels on the body.
It is taken flat, across the chest, measured one inch below the armhole seam on both the front and back panel. Because the garment is measured flat, this is a half-chest measurement. A half-chest of 60cm means a full chest circumference of 120cm when worn.
This measurement determines how the garment fits across the torso. Too narrow and the body feels restrictive. Too wide and the silhouette reads as shapeless. For oversized streetwear pieces, the half-chest typically runs between 62cm and 68cm on a size medium depending on the intended drop. For a more fitted cut, it sits closer to 54cm to 58cm.
When you're checking a sample against the spec, measure the chest one inch below the underarm seam on both sides and compare. A tolerance of plus or minus 1cm is generally acceptable. Anything beyond that should be flagged.
Body Length
Body length is measured from the highest point of the shoulder, at the centre of the collar seam, straight down to the bottom hem at the centre front.
This measurement controls where the garment falls on the body. A standard adult hoodie in a medium typically lands somewhere between 68cm and 74cm body length depending on the intended fit. Extended or cropped silhouettes sit outside this range intentionally.
Body length is the measurement most affected by fabric relaxation after washing. Pre-shrunk blanks like those produced at René Bassett have 0 to 3% shrinkage, which on a 70cm body length means the finished length after washing stays within roughly 1 to 2cm of the spec. Brands using non-pre-shrunk blanks need to account for this in their spec.
Sleeve Length
Sleeve length is measured from the centre back of the collar, across the shoulder point and down to the end of the cuff. This is the cross-back sleeve length and is the most common convention in international production.
Some spec sheets measure sleeve length from the shoulder seam to the cuff instead. The two produce different numbers for the same garment, so it's important to confirm which method your spec is using before comparing against a sample.
A standard sleeve on an oversized medium hoodie measured from the centre back runs approximately 88cm to 93cm. On a more fitted cut the same measurement sits lower.
Shoulder Width
Shoulder width is measured flat across the back of the garment, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, following the line where the sleeve meets the body.
This measurement affects the structure of the garment significantly. A shoulder width that's too narrow creates a dropped-shoulder effect where the sleeve seam falls off the natural shoulder point toward the arm. A shoulder width that's too wide creates a square, boxy look even on lighter-framed wearers.
On structured oversized hoodies, a shoulder width of 50cm to 56cm on a medium is common. This measurement interacts directly with the chest width: a very wide chest with a narrow shoulder produces a silhouette that reads as draped rather than structured.
Sleeve Opening (Cuff Width)
The cuff width is measured flat across the ribbed cuff at the very end of the sleeve.
This is a measurement that many brands overlook until they see the finished product and realise the cuffs are either too tight or too loose. On a ribbed cuff, the measurement is taken with the ribbing in its natural, unstreched state. A standard cuff on a medium runs approximately 9cm to 11cm flat, which gives a circumference of 18cm to 22cm when worn.
For brands with a more fitted sleeve silhouette, the cuff width is often kept tighter. For relaxed or wide-sleeve silhouettes, a wider cuff reads better proportionally.
Bottom Hem Width
The hem width is measured flat across the bottom of the garment, from one side seam to the other.
On most garments, the hem width is close to or slightly wider than the chest width because the body panel doesn't taper significantly toward the hem. The hem may be finished with a ribbed band, in which case measure the ribbing in its natural state, or with a straight hem cut from the main fabric.
If your garment has a drawstring at the hem, the spec should include the hem width both with and without the drawstring tightened.
Hood Height and Hood Width
For hoodies, the hood is typically specified with two measurements.
Hood height is measured from the crown of the hood down to the point where the hood joins the neckband, following the centre front of the hood. This controls how much coverage the hood provides. A short hood height leaves the crown of the head exposed when worn up. Too tall and the hood falls forward over the face.
Hood width is measured flat across the hood at its widest point, typically at ear level. This affects how much volume the hood has when worn and how it sits when down. A narrow hood lies flat against the neck and reads as clean and minimal. A wider hood has more volume and a more relaxed silhouette.
Armhole Depth
The armhole is measured from the shoulder seam down the curve of the armhole to the underarm seam, following the seam line.
This measurement directly affects how the sleeve attaches and how much freedom of movement the garment allows. A deep armhole creates a dropped-shoulder effect that's characteristic of oversized streetwear. A shallower armhole gives a more structured silhouette where the sleeve attaches closer to the natural shoulder.
Measurements Specific to Sweatpants and Shorts
Waist (Half Waist)
The waist is measured flat across the top of the waistband in its natural, unstreched state. Like the chest, this is typically recorded as a half measurement. For elasticated waistbands, the spec usually includes both the relaxed measurement and the stretched measurement.
Inseam
The inseam is measured from the crotch seam down the inside leg to the bottom of the hem. This controls the length of the leg below the crotch point.
Outseam
The outseam is measured from the top of the waistband down the outside of the leg to the bottom hem. This gives the total length of the garment from waist to hem.
Thigh Width
The thigh width is measured flat across the leg at the highest point, just below the crotch seam. This is one of the measurements that most affects how a sweatpant silhouette reads: a wide thigh creates a relaxed, dropped-crotch look while a narrower thigh produces a more tapered profile.
Leg Opening
The leg opening is measured flat across the hem of each leg. A wide leg opening reads as relaxed and contemporary. A tapered opening creates a more traditional sweatpant silhouette.
How to Use the Spec Sheet During Sample Review
When your sample arrives, measure it against the spec before anything else. Use a soft tape measure, lay the garment on a flat surface and measure each point exactly as described above.
Mark any measurement that falls outside the acceptable tolerance, which is typically plus or minus 1cm on most measurements and plus or minus 0.5cm on smaller measurements like cuff width. Write the actual measurement next to the spec measurement so your feedback to the manufacturer is precise: "Chest width: spec 60cm, sample 63cm, please reduce to 60cm" is more useful than "the chest seems a bit wide."
Once you've confirmed measurements, then move on to the visual checks for placement, colour and decoration quality.
For a full walkthrough of the sampling process and what to check at each round, the sampling process guide covers everything after the spec sheet.
How Spec Sheets Work at René Bassett
At René Bassett, the base measurements for each blank style are already established and consistent across production. When you work with us, you receive a spec sheet for the style you've chosen that reflects the actual measurements of our blanks in each size.
This means you're not starting from scratch. The chest width, body length, shoulder width and all other measurements are already defined and consistent across reorders. What you're specifying on top of that are the variables that belong to your brand: your print or embroidery placement with exact dimensions, your label position, and any size modifications if your target fit differs from our standard grading.
If you want to see the spec sheet for a specific style before ordering, book a free consulting call and we'll go through it with you. Or order a sample from the Starter Pack to measure the garment yourself before committing to a production brief.
The tech pack guide covers how the spec sheet fits into the broader production document, if you want to understand how all the pieces connect.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a spec sheet and a tech pack?
A tech pack is the full production document, covering fabric specifications, decoration placement, label instructions, construction details and measurements. The spec sheet is the measurement section of the tech pack. Some brands use the terms interchangeably, but strictly speaking the spec sheet is one component of the tech pack.
Are garment measurements taken stretched or flat?
All garment measurements are taken flat, with the garment laid on a smooth surface and not stretched. Measurements taken stretched will not match factory measurements and will cause confusion during sample review.
Is the chest measurement a half or full measurement?
Typically half, meaning the garment is measured across one side lying flat. A half chest of 60cm corresponds to a full chest circumference of 120cm when worn. Confirm with your manufacturer which convention they use before comparing numbers.
What tolerance is acceptable on garment measurements?
A tolerance of plus or minus 1cm is generally accepted on most measurements. On smaller details like cuff width or neckband height, plus or minus 0.5cm is more appropriate. Anything outside these tolerances should be flagged in your sample feedback.
Do measurements change after washing?
Yes, and the amount depends on whether the fabric is pre-shrunk. René Bassett blanks are pre-shrunk with 0 to 3% shrinkage, meaning a 70cm body length will remain within approximately 1 to 2cm of the spec after washing. Non-pre-shrunk fabrics can shrink significantly more, which needs to be accounted for in the spec.
What happens if a measurement on my sample is outside spec?
Flag it with the exact numbers in your feedback to the manufacturer: the spec measurement, the sample measurement, and the correction needed. This gives the production team a precise target for the revision rather than an interpretation of vague directional feedback.
Does René Bassett provide spec sheets for its blanks?
Yes. Each blank style has an established spec across all sizes. When you work with us, the base spec is provided so you know exactly what you're building on before you write your own production brief.
Can I modify the measurements of a René Bassett blank for my own fit? Minor modifications are possible within certain parameters. Contact us to discuss what's feasible for the style you're interested in before including custom measurements in your brief.
Related Reading
What Is a Tech Pack? And Why Every Brand Needs One Before Production
Clothing Sampling Process: How Many Rounds Before You Approve Production?
From Sample to Bulk Order: The Production Timeline Explained
What Does GSM Mean in Clothing? And Why It Matters More Than You Think
Create Your Tech Pack
Book a Free Consulting Call
Written by
Ricardo Vieira
Ricardo Vieira is the founder of René Bassett and has worked in the Portuguese textile industry for over 10 years. He grew up close to garment production — his family's company operated in the sector — and developed a technical understanding of fabrics, fabric weights and customisation processes that shapes every product René Bassett brings to market. He writes about everything a clothing brand founder needs to understand about blanks, fabrics and production before launching — or scaling — a brand.