When it comes to embroidery, the blank is not just a base. It is part of the final result.
Not every hoodie or t-shirt is built to support stitching properly. And when the base is wrong, even the best embroidery setup will look unstable, distorted or cheap.
If you are planning custom embroidered hoodies or tees, understanding how fabric, GSM and construction affect embroidery quality is essential. This is especially true in premium streetwear, where customers expect precision, durability and a refined finish.
This guide explains how to choose the right blank for embroidery, what to look for in fabric construction, and when tees or hoodies make the most sense for embroidered designs.
Fabric Structure and GSM for Embroidery
Embroidery adds tension to fabric. Every stitch pulls, compresses and slightly reshapes the surface it is applied to. If the fabric is too light, too loose or poorly constructed, the result is puckering, distortion and loss of definition.
This is why GSM and knit structure matter so much.
Why higher GSM performs better
Higher GSM fabrics offer more stability. A denser knit gives the needle something to anchor into, allowing stitches to sit cleanly instead of sinking, warping or pulling the fabric around them.
In practice, this means:
Lightweight hoodies and tees often struggle with embroidery because the fabric flexes too much under tension. Premium embroidery requires a base that can resist that movement.
300gsm tees and 480gsm hoodies
In modern streetwear, two weight categories stand out for embroidery:
-
300gsm t-shirts: Dense enough to support embroidery without feeling stiff. Ideal for chest logos, minimal branding and smaller graphic elements.
-
480gsm hoodies: Extremely stable, structured and forgiving. Perfect for larger embroidery, detailed logos and premium branding that needs presence.
At René Bassett, we work primarily with heavyweight cotton blanks because they allow embroidery to look intentional and refined instead of forced onto the garment.
Necklines, Seams and Panels That Affect Embroidery
Fabric weight alone is not enough. The construction of the garment plays a major role in how embroidery behaves.
Necklines
Necklines are one of the most common areas for embroidery, especially for small logos or brand signatures. A reinforced collar with proper rib structure holds embroidery far better than soft or loosely finished necklines.
Thin collars tend to stretch and warp over time, especially when embroidery is placed too close to the edge.
Seams and panel layout
Seams create natural tension points. Embroidering directly over seams or too close to them can cause uneven stitching or visual distortion.
Panel construction also matters. Hoodies with well-defined chest panels provide cleaner embroidery zones than garments with complex seam layouts or excessive curvature.
A good blank offers flat, uninterrupted areas that allow embroidery to sit naturally and consistently across production runs.
Hoods and sleeves
Hood embroidery requires extra attention. Heavy hoods with structured panels hold stitching better and maintain shape after washing. Lightweight hoods often collapse, making embroidery look uneven.
Sleeve embroidery also benefits from heavier fabrics, especially when branding is placed near cuffs or mid-sleeve.
Choosing Between Tees and Hoodies as Embroidery Blanks
Both t-shirts and hoodies can work beautifully for embroidery, but they serve different purposes and visual outcomes.
Embroidered t-shirts
Embroidered tees are ideal when the goal is subtle branding. A small chest logo, tonal embroidery or minimalist design works best on a stable 300gsm jersey.
These pieces feel elevated without being loud. They are often used as premium basics, brand staples or part of capsule collections where restraint is part of the aesthetic.
Embroidered hoodies
Hoodies allow embroidery to become a statement. The added weight and structure of a 480gsm hoodie supports larger designs, thicker stitching and more complex patterns.
Embroidered hoodies are often perceived as more premium than printed ones because the technique adds texture, depth and craftsmanship to the garment.
For brands looking to increase perceived value and pricing power, embroidered hoodies are one of the strongest options.
Why Does the Right Blank Make Embroidery Look Premium?
Customers may not know technical details like GSM or stitch density, but they immediately notice when embroidery looks clean and intentional.
Premium embroidery feels integrated into the garment. It does not ripple, warp or sit awkwardly on the fabric. It looks like it belongs there.
That effect only happens when fabric quality, construction and technique work together.
This is why choosing the right blank is not a detail. It is the foundation of the final product.
Work With a Partner That Understands the Full Process
At René Bassett, we help brands choose the right blanks and the right decoration techniques for each piece.
Beyond embroidery, we also support collections with:
-
Screen printing for bold, graphic applications
-
DTG for detailed, soft-touch artwork
-
DTF for high-opacity prints and durability
-
Mixed techniques that combine embroidery with printing
Our focus is always the same: matching fabric, construction and technique so the final garment feels premium, consistent and aligned with your brand’s positioning.
If your next collection includes custom embroidered hoodies or heavyweight tees, choosing the right base is where quality truly begins.
Custom Embroidered Hoodies and T-Shirts: How to Choose the Right Blank Base
When it comes to embroidery, the blank is not just a base. It is part of the final result.
Not every hoodie or t-shirt is built to support stitching properly. And when the base is wrong, even the best embroidery setup will look unstable, distorted or cheap.
If you are planning custom embroidered hoodies or tees, understanding how fabric, GSM and construction affect embroidery quality is essential. This is especially true in premium streetwear, where customers expect precision, durability and a refined finish.
This guide explains how to choose the right blank for embroidery, what to look for in fabric construction, and when tees or hoodies make the most sense for embroidered designs.
Fabric Structure and GSM for Embroidery
Embroidery adds tension to fabric. Every stitch pulls, compresses and slightly reshapes the surface it is applied to. If the fabric is too light, too loose or poorly constructed, the result is puckering, distortion and loss of definition.
This is why GSM and knit structure matter so much.
Why higher GSM performs better
Higher GSM fabrics offer more stability. A denser knit gives the needle something to anchor into, allowing stitches to sit cleanly instead of sinking, warping or pulling the fabric around them.
In practice, this means:
Cleaner stitch edges
Better logo definition
Less puckering around embroidered areas
Greater durability over time
Lightweight hoodies and tees often struggle with embroidery because the fabric flexes too much under tension. Premium embroidery requires a base that can resist that movement.
300gsm tees and 480gsm hoodies
In modern streetwear, two weight categories stand out for embroidery:
300gsm t-shirts: Dense enough to support embroidery without feeling stiff. Ideal for chest logos, minimal branding and smaller graphic elements.
480gsm hoodies: Extremely stable, structured and forgiving. Perfect for larger embroidery, detailed logos and premium branding that needs presence.
At René Bassett, we work primarily with heavyweight cotton blanks because they allow embroidery to look intentional and refined instead of forced onto the garment.
Necklines, Seams and Panels That Affect Embroidery
Fabric weight alone is not enough. The construction of the garment plays a major role in how embroidery behaves.
Necklines
Necklines are one of the most common areas for embroidery, especially for small logos or brand signatures. A reinforced collar with proper rib structure holds embroidery far better than soft or loosely finished necklines.
Thin collars tend to stretch and warp over time, especially when embroidery is placed too close to the edge.
Seams and panel layout
Seams create natural tension points. Embroidering directly over seams or too close to them can cause uneven stitching or visual distortion.
Panel construction also matters. Hoodies with well-defined chest panels provide cleaner embroidery zones than garments with complex seam layouts or excessive curvature.
A good blank offers flat, uninterrupted areas that allow embroidery to sit naturally and consistently across production runs.
Hoods and sleeves
Hood embroidery requires extra attention. Heavy hoods with structured panels hold stitching better and maintain shape after washing. Lightweight hoods often collapse, making embroidery look uneven.
Sleeve embroidery also benefits from heavier fabrics, especially when branding is placed near cuffs or mid-sleeve.
Choosing Between Tees and Hoodies as Embroidery Blanks
Both t-shirts and hoodies can work beautifully for embroidery, but they serve different purposes and visual outcomes.
Embroidered t-shirts
Embroidered tees are ideal when the goal is subtle branding. A small chest logo, tonal embroidery or minimalist design works best on a stable 300gsm jersey.
These pieces feel elevated without being loud. They are often used as premium basics, brand staples or part of capsule collections where restraint is part of the aesthetic.
Embroidered hoodies
Hoodies allow embroidery to become a statement. The added weight and structure of a 480gsm hoodie supports larger designs, thicker stitching and more complex patterns.
Embroidered hoodies are often perceived as more premium than printed ones because the technique adds texture, depth and craftsmanship to the garment.
For brands looking to increase perceived value and pricing power, embroidered hoodies are one of the strongest options.
Why Does the Right Blank Make Embroidery Look Premium?
Customers may not know technical details like GSM or stitch density, but they immediately notice when embroidery looks clean and intentional.
Premium embroidery feels integrated into the garment. It does not ripple, warp or sit awkwardly on the fabric. It looks like it belongs there.
That effect only happens when fabric quality, construction and technique work together.
This is why choosing the right blank is not a detail. It is the foundation of the final product.
Work With a Partner That Understands the Full Process
At René Bassett, we help brands choose the right blanks and the right decoration techniques for each piece.
Beyond embroidery, we also support collections with:
Screen printing for bold, graphic applications
DTG for detailed, soft-touch artwork
DTF for high-opacity prints and durability
Mixed techniques that combine embroidery with printing
Our focus is always the same: matching fabric, construction and technique so the final garment feels premium, consistent and aligned with your brand’s positioning.
If your next collection includes custom embroidered hoodies or heavyweight tees, choosing the right base is where quality truly begins.